PURA VIDA IV: All Good Things Must Come to an End (or do they?) #371-374

We woke up at our B&B in Playa Carillo, which we had arrived at in the dark, to a private deck overlooking the ocean. We had a (distant) ocean view, but the nice thing was that we were in an elevated spot in the tree tops and it was great for bird watching. We chowed down on yet another gallo pinto while watching hummingbirds come to the feeders and iguanas sunning themselves on the roof. The best part was watching some parrots and parakeets that appeared to be nesting in the tree beside our porch.

#371: White-fronted Parrot/Amazon (spectacled amazon parrot); Playa Carillo, Costa Rica; December 2015

These birds can live up to about 40 years!

Orange-chinned parrot

A clay-coloured thrush was hanging around. It makes an interesting choice as the national bird of Costa Rica, known as el yigüirro.

I always get a special thrill when I discover at home while writing up my blog that I saw a new bird and didn't realize it at the time. I have never even heard of this variety of oriole:

#372: Streak-backed Oriole; Playa Carillo, Costa Rica; December 2015

Thought this would make an interesting reference....this is the picture above BEFORE processing. Pretty awesome how powerful editing software is (and how much good info could be in a "bad" shot)

Not totally sure--maybe a Nutting's flycatcher (leaning this way) or Brown-crested flycatcher?

 Down on the beach we wandered among the rocks and tidal pools and made some good finds too. 

Spotted Sandpiper--I think we see these everywhere we go :)

It would have been easy to miss these guys, since they blend in so well, and it's easy to assume sandpipers are all the same. Always important to look closely! I think these are super striking birds! I love that long bill.

#373: Whimbrel; Playa Carillo, Costa Rica; December 2015

 We noticed this guy flying around and chased him for a while...
Until we found his hilarious friends...

Royal terns at Playa Carillo

Brown Pelican--Still my fave

Finally! A black tern caught on camera. We've seen these a few times and never managed to catch it! Even though it's not in its full black plumage,  it has distinctive markings.

#374: Black Tern; Playa Carillo, Costa Rica; December 2015

Inca dove having a snooze. Lazy beach days...

Just down the road, outside of Samara we stayed one night at an amaazing tucked-away "hotel" (The Flying Crocodile--really, I can't speak more highly of this place). Not far away was Playa Barrigona (OH MY GOD--I FOUND HEAVEN) and also Playa Buenavista, where there is a turtle sanctuary. We went to check it out; there were young volunteers from all over the world there, in what I would call far-from-luxurious conditions, in fact, the conditions were basic at best. I really had no idea how tough/rough these volunteer experiences can be--I'm a pretty tough chick but I think those conditions would snap me like a brittle twig! The work these guys are doing is amazing and so encouraging that people are doing this stuff, out of their own pocket, to make this world a better place. Makes me hopeful despite all the crap that is happening everywhere! Oh geez..now I am tearing up a little just writing this.

We had high hopes to see turtles but it was just the wrong time, and I hated the idea of going out in huge mobs at night looking for them, but we did see this guy fishing on the beach. You know where  there is a big school of fish if you just watch the birds! These are all black terns!


From there, we eventually moved on to Tamarindo for a little sun and surf and eventually onward home. Which means this is the last CR post! I've got to say, it's nice to finish this off, and I'm glad I managed to get through the 2000 pictures (which is why these posts sometimes take me so long to post). But it's been fun revisiting the memories now that a few months have passed.

Meanwhile, migration season has begun at home and I've returned to a few of my old haunts (my own kind of migration, I guess!). We even had a new bird right in the backyard! 

The Big 30 and the Big 300 (#300-306)

Well, we were mid-hike where I last left off...at #299...

I wasn't aware of it in the field, but I found my 300th bird out in the field, just one day before my 30th birthday. Turns out we found a lot of reasons to celebrate in Yelapa.

I'm not sure how the girl who set out to find 100 birds back in 2010 would feel about me finding #300.  But I think she'd be pretty impressed, and happy that something that started out as a little challenge became a full-blown passion. I think she'd marvel at the small, beautiful things I've found, the secret world I've been discovering, the knowledge I've gained, and the adventures I've had. I'm pretty sure she'd laugh at my unbridled nerdiness.

#300: San Blas Jay; Yelapa, Mexico; February 2014

There are amazing jays in Mexico. I'm still waiting to spot a Green Jay...one day, on another adventure!

#301: Groove-billed Ani; Yelapa, Mexico; February 2014
I had decided it was time to get moving a little faster (not as much fun when you aren't carrying the camera), but Matt was taking just forever and I was getting a little peeved. eventually I turn back to see where the heck he is, and I realize I totally missed out on a life bird. Luckily we found more soon after!

#302: Inca Dove; Yelapa, Mexico; February 2014
The inca doves were pretty easy to spot, were often pairs, and quite tiny.

 We couldn't believe our luck when we spotted a green kingfisher perched by the river!
#303: Green Kingfisher; Yelapa, Mexico; February 2014

#304: Common Black Hawk; Yelapa, Mexico; February 2014
 Matt had a knack that day for wandering off when I just wanted to get going and seeing life birds so then I'd feel really bad. This beautiful hawk was perched over a very quiet marshy area, right beside a bunch of the ricketiest houses you ever saw. Seemed a bit of a shanty-town over there.

I had a feeling this Muscovy duck was domestic but we weren't sure and took a shot just in case. Wild muscovies have black and domestics have more white. Safe to say this one is domestic!
Confusing Domestic Ducks (and hybrids)
Manky Muscovy Ducks

How's it hanging squirrel? Got nuts?

Not sure about this one...there are so many yellow/grey/brown flycatchers in Mexico!

On my birthday, I wanted to hike to the big waterfall (there's a smaller but also awesome one right in the village). It was about a 2-hour hike each way so we had ample opportunity to bird along the way. I couldn't believe that I'd hit my 300th bird just the day before and really wanted to keep up my "birthday life bird" tradition (it would have been too perfect to find my 300th on my 30th, right? Maybe I'll find my 500th on my 50th, lol!). We'd heard that macaws were frequently seen on the way to the falls and I was so hopeful that we'd see them too.

Following the directions to the falls "crawl through the gate on the left"

We made it all the way to the falls and still hadn't seen the macaws. I was starting to feel that growing, heavy feeling of imminent disappointment...until we heard this crazy loud squawking and these small specks
wayyyyyyyy overhead. The macaws are massive birds (70cm), so for them to appear so small is really something...I really expected them to just be perched on a nearby branch...like in a pet shop or something...

Anyways, it was clear that we'd seen them (and I had my birthday lifer), but we only had the most disappointing of photos.

Luckily, on the hike back, a couple flew back quite a bit closer, close enough that you could see the bold sections of colour.

#305: Military Macaw; Yelapa, Mexico; February 2014

While the quality of this shot is pretty far from spectacular, it made me oddly happy. Here are these birds that are at a high risk of being poached for the pet trade and there they are, up there, doing their awesome thing. It was sadly so odd to see them flying so high--because we only ever see them in cages. The reason this picture is not technically very good is the reason it's so awesome: because it's on the birds' terms. Here are two beautiful parrots, wild and free. And on my 30th birthday, I thought that that's pretty much the best thing you can be--wild and free. I can't say how good it is to hit a milestone and feel so immensely grateful, and to feel like maybe you've figured it out. To feel like the path is unfolding before you in the most wonderful way.

The day after my birthday I had a few hours to myself to roam around the village. It was generally pretty quiet, but I did spot this beauty...I'm not sure how, as it was sitting absolutely still.
#306: Russet-crowned Motmot; Yelapa, Mexico; February 2014

Later that day, on our last morning in Yelapa, we started out the day at Cafe Bahia. In addition to our first real coffees in several days and fantastic grub, I loved the view right out front pier, watching the water taxis come in, unload, load up and take off again. I love that on each post of the pier there was an awesome bird...magnificent frigatebird, brown pelicans, and black vultures around too. 

 

Me and my fave bird.

It's always fun watching the pelicans do their thing--dive bombing for fish, cruising, or taking a snooze on someone's rickety fishing boat. Also hilarious watching them try to turn the fish around to gobble them down whole, or take one that's just a bit too big.

As always lots of yellow/black birds that I could agonize over identifying them or I could just post the pics for you to enjoy.

Love these swallows and love the dramatic backdrop and how they lined up perfectly. Art in nature!

Well, it looks like I reached the end of Mexico 2014. I don't know what it is about that place, but it makes me feel more like me than I ever feel. It strips away all the distractions and everyone and everything is so real. it's vibrant, and confusing, and awesome.

It's so exciting birding away from home and seeing lifers it seems every day. The birding continues at home, but I don't always take my camera with me. but I'm out there, loving it as always.

catch ya later...
j

Boobies and I'm on a boat ... to the Marietas Islands (#294)

One of the places near Puerto Vallarta that we absolutely wanted to visit was the Marietas Islands (Islas Marietas). The islands, thanks in part to Jacques Cousteau, are now a protected national park. Previously, the islands were used for military bomb testing, which created some interesting formations, but did some serious damage to the resident wildlife population.

Not my pic, but so you get an idea---More pics and info on Hidden Beach here

If that pretty much sounds like paradise, the beach is much smaller than it looks. Now imagine the 120 other people you showed up with it and the pervasive scent of bird guano. 

Well, it is still an interesting spot. But first...how we got there...

This story isn't really about birding, but it's all part of the adventure. If you think for one second that travelling with Matt and me is glamorous, you are terribly wrong. Our schedule was, let's say rather hectic, and we had to get from Sayulita to Puerto Vallarta for a boat departure at 8:30 am. That meant needing a bit of breathing room for something going wrong (it always does), plus the bus ride of an hour or so, plus getting to the bus from our remote jungle casita. That meant waking up at 5 am and getting a taxi for 5:30 am.

We'd arranged a taxi the night before, and our driver says "No problem, I come pick you up, no problem," but we have the phone numbers of two other drivers in case. By 6 am our driver has still not arrived, the other two are not answering their phones, and I sit on the step to figure out the options to realize...we have none. So, I turn to Matt and there's only one thing to do: start walking.

Through the dark jungle, on a ridiculous potholed dirt road with our suitcases, backpacks, and me...remember that ceramic sink I bought the night before? Yep...I'm carrying it too. At first the road is cobbles and the suitcases are rattling away behind us and I wonder if the wheels are even still attached. Then the road gives way to sand and the wheels sink right in and we are essentially dragging them through it as the sand builds up at the front. At this rate it will take us at least an hour to walk into town. The only positive thing is that I thought to pack a headlamp, so we can see...sort of. Because in the jungle, when it is dark, man is it dark.

This continues for about 10 minutes until we hear a rumbling behind us and I'm not sure what to think--this is either our saving grace or our worst nightmare--here we are in the Mexican jungle in the dark---and the old, battered truck comes rattling down the road looking like something is going to fall off it any minute and stops next to us. The driver asks in Spanish if we want a ride and Matt and I look at each other again...do we have any other option? I'm calculating how long it would take for us to walk to the bus stop and I know we aren't going to make it, so we throw our suitcases in the cab and squeeze into his truck, and I thank god for my broken Spanish and explain we need to catch the bus to Puerto Vallarta from Sayulita. He nods his head and I learn a few things about him and hope we haven't found our way into serious trouble, but 5-10 minutes later we jumping out at the bus stop just as the bus is getting ready to leave. Bless this Mexican man's soul!

A very bumpy, dark ride to Sayulita. Most people are clearly heading in for work, and lots of kids in uniforms are making their way to school. We get dropped off close to the marina and walk to it, we walk around for 20 minutes or so and can't find what we're looking for. Eventually we find someone and realize we are at the WRONG marina and we need to be at the other one NOW. We still have all the stupid luggage and get in a taxi to the other end of the marina, where we realize there is nowhere to put our luggage during the boat ride. I've been out of resort mode and forgot this is a "day trip" for most people, so we end up taking all of out luggage (including the sink) onto the boat.

So, we are finally off. We are also, literally, the very last people on the boat. There are not a lot of options to get to the Marietas. No boats are actually allowed to land on the islands. Most people are not going for the birds. We had looked into just renting a water taxi to get to the islands, but it turns out most of the water taxis would run out of gas before they got there. The the tour we took (Vallarta Adventures) was way more tolerable than we imagined (except the part where the crew dressed up like the Flintstones and air guitared Guns & Roses on the top deck).  The ride is about an hour, and it's not long before we spot what we came for: boobies! I mean, blue-footed ones!

We are also treated to sea turtle sightings and several humpback whale sightings. We have seen a lot of humpback whales lately, but it was really amazing how many there were.

We get breakfast on the boat, which is a real unexpected treat since we didn't have time to eat earlier. When we get to the islands, there are thousands of birds and the distinct smell of bird poop. Everyone piles out of the boat and swims through the tunnel to Hidden Beach.

I'm wearing leggings because my legs are sooooo burnt

It's really not long before they round us up to get back on the boat for "activities." The options are all splendid, and I would do all three but the choice is easy:

1. Paddleboarding
2. Kayaking
3. Birdwatching
4. Staying on the boat and getting drunk

Of the 120 people on our boat we were two of only six people who chose birdwatching (and I'm pretty sure two if them didn't even really want to do it but didn't speak English and I think they misunderstood what was happening). Anyway, it was pretty great. We got into a smaller boat and were able to get way close to the birds.

The guide explained that the name "booby" comes from the Spanish bobo, meaning dumb, since they are so clumsy on land and not scared of people at all (and we basically got right beside them).

 #294: Blue-footed Booby; Mexico; February 2014

There were both brown boobies (he called them yellow-footed) and blue-footed boobies, in addition to lots of Heerman's Gulls and magnificent frigatebirds.

Brown Booby

Crazy that these frigatebirds looks small! And neat to see them landed.

Heerman's Gulls. I think they are quite striking!

 

Laughing Gull

I watched this guy land after he caught a fish. Beautiful breeding plumage and he's swallowing his food. Great view of neck pouch.

Down the hatch! Amazing how slender his neck is!

Royal Terns looking cool. Also, check out the speck of red on the tip of the bill of the laughing gull in the back!!

Overhead there were so many birds, mainly frigatebirds and vultures. The guide explained something I didn't know (and these tidbits really made it for me)--that frigatebirds, though pelagic (they live mostly at sea), their feathers are not waterproof, so they just fly around and then steal their food from the boobies. Frigate refers to the ships that pirates used. So they are piratebirds! Stealin' all yer goods!

I don't often check to see if they are black vultures anymore since I never find one, but when the guide said there were both turkey and black cultures, I was like "WHAT!" He was right, and we saw lots more later in the trip.

Once we got back on land, we raced down to Los Muerto pier just to get on another boat--the water taxi to Yelapa. While waiting, I loved watching the pelicans on the fishermen's boats. I imagine the owners hate it since they must have lots of cleaning to do. 

 

I have a sneaking suspicion that #300 is coming up really soon. See you in Yelapa!