Pura Vida I: Feliz Navidad! Rincon de la Vieja #323-327

Happy new year! I'm back for what seems to be my once-a-year series of posts. Not that there hasn't been any shortage of things to talk about (the first thing that comes to mind is the many birders from far and wide who descended on nearby Pakenham to spot a rare "Bullock's Oriole," which was followed by a dramatic rescue, but then it turned out...not to be a bullock's oriole? Or earlier this year when a Little Egret made an appearance and birders zig-zagged across the city on a daily basis, reporting sightings (and non-sightings) by the day, hour and sometimes even minute. Hmm...seems I forgot to count that one.). But I've got to admit, there's nothing like a lifer to get you excited, and nothing like travelling to a new place to guarantee a nice string of new and amazing birds to spot and observe, especially when they are BIG (and teeny tiny), colorful ones in Costa Rica!

We made a really last-minute decision to take off for the holidays. I had it in my head I needed to get away and Costa Rica was where I wanted to go most. We got really lucky and found a really awesome deal on a flight (booking last-minute accommodations during the holidays was not so much of a great deal, but I don't need to write about that here!).

So, we had basically 2.5 weeks to prepare, find places to stay, order The Birds of Costa Rica and get it in the mail just in time. As it turns out, it was also a frantic 2.5 weeks of research and searching for a new/used camera body to add to the current inventory (more on that later).

So let's just jump right into it. We landed in Liberia on Christmas Eve and headed inland. Yes, it was really hard to turn away from the beach, but I thought it would be better to end on the beach than to start there. Plus, the way I travel, I'd need some rest after a few days of "vacation." Our first challenge was just driving through the myriad of streets of Liberia and attempting to comprehend the logic and rules where street signs, traffic lights and stop signs seemed to be completely non-existent. We got honked at constantly and had no clue what we had done wrong. The rest of the day was spent caked in mud at the Rio Negro hot springs, skyping/messaging home to family, and sitting down to a long table with all the other guests at our bed and breakfast for a Christmas Eve dinner. So it wasn't home, but it was something special nevertheless.

Birding in earnest wouldn't start until Christmas day. I guess you could say we did our own version of a Christmas Bird Count! We set our alarm for 5:30, but the sun wasn't really up enough yet. Finally at about 6 we headed out and just birded around our cabina (which was a revamped storage container...it was very cool!) set on a large rural property.

A few birds were familiar to us (or at least looked that way). I definitely wish I'd had time to use the new camera before we left, but it was literally, fresh out of the box and I couldn't figure out a few things right away---important ones, like selective focus points.  Aye! It's also SO frustrating when you set such a high standard for yourself, and you only see a bird ONCE for a few split seconds, and the lighting is hard, or the settings are wrong, and the picture is just crap. But it's the only shots you've got. This is why vacations need to be longer--so you have more chance to spot and photograph those elusive ones :)

Groove-billed ani, looking a little molty

 #323: Rufous-naped wren; Rincon de laVieja, Costa Rica; December 2015
One of the first birds I noticed  moving around the property in the morning. We had a heated discussion about the type of wren it was over communal breakfast - gallo pinto smothered in salsa lizano. The other guests likely thought we were bananas. They ended up being quite a common sight over the week.

 

Inca Dove hanging out in front of our container

Great Kiskadee - a familiar one!

Didn't quite figure this one out but it sure is a beauty. Feel free to contact me if you have ideas :)

#324: White-necked Jacobin; Rincon de la vieja, Costa Rica; December 2016
It was so frustrating shooting these teeny tiny, incredibly fast little birds zipping around WAY up in a massive tree in pretty harsh light. Matt managed to get this shot, which isn't our best, but it's perfect for identification!

#325: Orange-chinned parakeet; Rincon de la vieja, Costa Rica; December 2016.
Another shot Matt managed to get while I was off wandering, doing I don't know what (I'd given up on shooting). This pic was so dark but I boosted the exposure, which revealed something very interesting--a clincher for ID--the orange under the chin! Booyah!

You have to be really careful and  not just assume they are the same as similar birds you've seen before, and I did this so many times while Matt kept shooting, only to get home and look at the pictures and realize it was something completely new--I won't fall for that again!

CASE IN POINT: As I was finalizing this post and adding tags, I was wondering why "white-throated magpie jay" wasn't popping up in my previously used tags. BECAUSE I'VE NEVER USED IT. We saw a BLACK-throated magpie jay previously in Mexico, not a white-throated. And I just realized that...right now. Literally, after I'd already written this entire post, even edited the pictures. Assuming---bad, bad, bad!

My book is seeming to indicate to me this is a Western Kingbird, but I'm going to be conservative (ha, for once!) and wait to make a call.

#326: Hoffmann's woodpecker; Rincon de la vieja, Costa Rica; December 2016. Another once I was convinced we'd likely seen. Thank goodness we stopped for a few shots. What a gorgeous bird!

After wandering the property, we headed back up to Rincon de la Vieja, mainly to hike the trail to see the mudpots and other volcanic activity. There was bird activity in the forest but we didn't linger--with our typical jam-packed itinerary (I'm trying to slow down, really!), we had other places to be later in the day.

Saw this little guy (I *think* it's a ruby-throated). Seems like odd behaviour--looking for insects? Sourcing mud? I'm not sure and can't find info on ruby-throats using mud.

#327: White-throated magpie jay; Rincon de la vieja, Costa Rica, December 2016.
They are so majestic--like GIANT blue jays (about 50 cm). Compare to the Black-throated magpie jays we saw in Mexico.

When I showed this picture to the ranger after our hike, he had to look twice. This is NOT a poisonous coral snake but it's safe cousin, a milk or king snake. The rhyme to remember it is "Red touch black, safe for Jack. Red touches yellow, kills a fellow."

A coati hanging out near the ranger station--they remind me a lot of raccoons.

As we were on the move that day, we didn't stay to do any of the waterfall trails. Instead, we started weaving our way through the countryside to Tenorio Volcano National Park. We wanted to do lots each day, but it's difficult when the sun sets at 5:30. I was thinking this was because it was winter, but no, it rises at 5:30 in the morning and sets at 5:30 at night every day. As a result, we never slept in (ok, maybe once), but if you want to see anything in daylight, you need to get up! So coming home to Canada was great, because I got to sleep an extra hour and half in the morning!

Let's keep in mind, it's Christmas Day.  And it couldn't feel less like it. No snow, no presents under tree, no family and no Rudolph on TV. But they celebrate a little differently. This isn't a bird-related picture (and I'm going to really try to stick to the birding activities for this series of posts or I would be writing this blog for the next year--plus, the bird stuff is what you're here for, right?!), but it was pretty cool that we stopped at this waterfall on Christmas Day and it was fill of Costa Rican families swimming and having picnics.  Later that night we'd drive through a little town and many of the casitas had Christmas lights and decorations up (sometimes decorated full-size fake Christmas trees on the front porch). It was so strange to see.

Looks like I'm going to have to cut this one short--I've already run out of my 200-character tag limit, and I know it's hard to read super-long blog posts. Be back soon!

The Big 30 and the Big 300 (#300-306)

Well, we were mid-hike where I last left off...at #299...

I wasn't aware of it in the field, but I found my 300th bird out in the field, just one day before my 30th birthday. Turns out we found a lot of reasons to celebrate in Yelapa.

I'm not sure how the girl who set out to find 100 birds back in 2010 would feel about me finding #300.  But I think she'd be pretty impressed, and happy that something that started out as a little challenge became a full-blown passion. I think she'd marvel at the small, beautiful things I've found, the secret world I've been discovering, the knowledge I've gained, and the adventures I've had. I'm pretty sure she'd laugh at my unbridled nerdiness.

#300: San Blas Jay; Yelapa, Mexico; February 2014

There are amazing jays in Mexico. I'm still waiting to spot a Green Jay...one day, on another adventure!

#301: Groove-billed Ani; Yelapa, Mexico; February 2014
I had decided it was time to get moving a little faster (not as much fun when you aren't carrying the camera), but Matt was taking just forever and I was getting a little peeved. eventually I turn back to see where the heck he is, and I realize I totally missed out on a life bird. Luckily we found more soon after!

#302: Inca Dove; Yelapa, Mexico; February 2014
The inca doves were pretty easy to spot, were often pairs, and quite tiny.

 We couldn't believe our luck when we spotted a green kingfisher perched by the river!
#303: Green Kingfisher; Yelapa, Mexico; February 2014

#304: Common Black Hawk; Yelapa, Mexico; February 2014
 Matt had a knack that day for wandering off when I just wanted to get going and seeing life birds so then I'd feel really bad. This beautiful hawk was perched over a very quiet marshy area, right beside a bunch of the ricketiest houses you ever saw. Seemed a bit of a shanty-town over there.

I had a feeling this Muscovy duck was domestic but we weren't sure and took a shot just in case. Wild muscovies have black and domestics have more white. Safe to say this one is domestic!
Confusing Domestic Ducks (and hybrids)
Manky Muscovy Ducks

How's it hanging squirrel? Got nuts?

Not sure about this one...there are so many yellow/grey/brown flycatchers in Mexico!

On my birthday, I wanted to hike to the big waterfall (there's a smaller but also awesome one right in the village). It was about a 2-hour hike each way so we had ample opportunity to bird along the way. I couldn't believe that I'd hit my 300th bird just the day before and really wanted to keep up my "birthday life bird" tradition (it would have been too perfect to find my 300th on my 30th, right? Maybe I'll find my 500th on my 50th, lol!). We'd heard that macaws were frequently seen on the way to the falls and I was so hopeful that we'd see them too.

Following the directions to the falls "crawl through the gate on the left"

We made it all the way to the falls and still hadn't seen the macaws. I was starting to feel that growing, heavy feeling of imminent disappointment...until we heard this crazy loud squawking and these small specks
wayyyyyyyy overhead. The macaws are massive birds (70cm), so for them to appear so small is really something...I really expected them to just be perched on a nearby branch...like in a pet shop or something...

Anyways, it was clear that we'd seen them (and I had my birthday lifer), but we only had the most disappointing of photos.

Luckily, on the hike back, a couple flew back quite a bit closer, close enough that you could see the bold sections of colour.

#305: Military Macaw; Yelapa, Mexico; February 2014

While the quality of this shot is pretty far from spectacular, it made me oddly happy. Here are these birds that are at a high risk of being poached for the pet trade and there they are, up there, doing their awesome thing. It was sadly so odd to see them flying so high--because we only ever see them in cages. The reason this picture is not technically very good is the reason it's so awesome: because it's on the birds' terms. Here are two beautiful parrots, wild and free. And on my 30th birthday, I thought that that's pretty much the best thing you can be--wild and free. I can't say how good it is to hit a milestone and feel so immensely grateful, and to feel like maybe you've figured it out. To feel like the path is unfolding before you in the most wonderful way.

The day after my birthday I had a few hours to myself to roam around the village. It was generally pretty quiet, but I did spot this beauty...I'm not sure how, as it was sitting absolutely still.
#306: Russet-crowned Motmot; Yelapa, Mexico; February 2014

Later that day, on our last morning in Yelapa, we started out the day at Cafe Bahia. In addition to our first real coffees in several days and fantastic grub, I loved the view right out front pier, watching the water taxis come in, unload, load up and take off again. I love that on each post of the pier there was an awesome bird...magnificent frigatebird, brown pelicans, and black vultures around too. 

 

Me and my fave bird.

It's always fun watching the pelicans do their thing--dive bombing for fish, cruising, or taking a snooze on someone's rickety fishing boat. Also hilarious watching them try to turn the fish around to gobble them down whole, or take one that's just a bit too big.

As always lots of yellow/black birds that I could agonize over identifying them or I could just post the pics for you to enjoy.

Love these swallows and love the dramatic backdrop and how they lined up perfectly. Art in nature!

Well, it looks like I reached the end of Mexico 2014. I don't know what it is about that place, but it makes me feel more like me than I ever feel. It strips away all the distractions and everyone and everything is so real. it's vibrant, and confusing, and awesome.

It's so exciting birding away from home and seeing lifers it seems every day. The birding continues at home, but I don't always take my camera with me. but I'm out there, loving it as always.

catch ya later...
j